|
|
|
 ONNO FAQ+ |
|
Monday, December 20
What, if anything does ONNO mean?
When I realized I was going to market these paddles I wanted to convey. Old world craftsmanship with New materials. I thought about it while working.....picked up a marker and wrote O N on the wall, stepped back, then FELT the idea come into my head. I wrote N O. Don't think carbon and old world deserve to be in the same sentence? I beg to differ. Where do I start????? The first and subsequently refined test paddles were lovingly shaped using only hand tools. Once satisfied (for a while), I made molds of these. To which I cut, saturate and place fibers uninhibited by substrate limitations exactly where I want to. Am I to be faulted for wanting to repeat this process consistently? Because I don't long for the days when enduring pain and hardship was a way of life, I use an electric drill motor on the two piece paddles. Ono in Hawaiian means so good, delicious, and the best.
I am writing this to better inform you the customer about paddles in general. Some of this is common knowledge as you may come to find out. I may be setting myself up for criticism here by putting all this on the web. I am nervous about this. If you have a minute please let me know what you think. I do know that somewhere in the galaxy there is an exception for every thing. There are lots of you out there who are super specialized in what you do . This is what I do and I get to listen to lots of good folk's wisdom.
Why are your paddles so much less expensive comparatively?
I wish people would ask why other manufacturer's paddles are so expensive. I will spend as much time with you as you want discussing your paddle, boat and life in general. I will carefully explain the differences in paddle design and construction to help you make the most informed choices possible. I then build your paddle with all these things in mind on a timely basis, wrap it up, send it to you with the implication that if you do not love it or it's not what you expected you may send it back for a full refund. In short, I don't know.
What is dihedral and what does it do?
Dihedral is the 'V' shape built into some blades. All ONNO paddles have a 'deep' dihedral and are proud of it. Here is an easy way to think about dihedral. Hold a flat piece of cardboard out the car window or 'paddle' it in the pool. Notice how it quickly starts to wobble. Next fold the same size or even larger piece a few degrees and do it again. Notice how stable it is? Dihedral. Though it does 'detune' the power somewhat it adds an astounding amount of stability and overall sensitivity to the paddle. The rib on the backside of my paddles is mostly hidden behind this dihedral and the paddle releases with a sound not unlike when an Olympic diver enters the water perfectly. The way to halt the twisting of the flat panel (non dihedral paddle) is to increase torsional resistance... i.e. grip harder. You don't need thumbs to use an ONNO paddle. This is why ONNO paddles are a favorite amongst the entire animal kingdom. Though I have never looked this far into it, someone once told me 'The Mangus effect' (written 1858) may help answer the physics.
Oh wait, I remember a good one.
Since we never reckon that we understand a thing 'till we can give an account of it's "how and why," it is clear that we must look into the "how and why" of things coming into existence and passing out of it. .............Aristotle, The Physics
I find it amusing to read adds which tout flat or almost flat blades as being better and implying they are more 'advanced' by gauchly stating using dihedral paddles is like using training wheels. In reply I counter that one test paddle of these supposedly 'superior' blades will only reveal they are akin to using square wheels. I invite comparison with alacrity.
What does an asymmetrical paddle do for me..and symmetrical?
A symmetrical paddle get's dropped in the dark (underwater?) gets found any way possible.. ready to go. Easier to crank out by the millions and be assembled by poor non-paddlers on aluminum shafts.
The asymmetrical allows for a cleaner entry (less initial twist /torque) than a symmetrical. While the exit (release?) is almost indiscernible. Want to really see? While on the water flip the asymmetrical paddle over, paddle low angle first ..........not much diff. Then paddle high angle with a little faster cadence.......you will see why asymmetrical rules in all things, organic at least, and that is what I am going for. Thank you for your patience.
What do you mean by "All profiles fine tunable"?
If you are not quite sure or have tried the Full tour and Mid tour and would like something in between, I can split the difference or even make any profile just a wee bit smaller if you wish. I mostly do this with the Big Boy blades. After speaking with you and finding out what you are using now, your likes/dislikes and expectations I can bring this huge blade (or any other profile) down to fit. A large blade is fast at first but will you be able to turn it over at your most efficient heart rate for as long as you require? This paddle usually ends up between 7.625 and 7.875. It is real easy to file the blades down yourself. Feel free to ask for help. Wear gloves! A large paddle IS relaxing to use when you are in no kind of hurry too. Joints can handle the loads but not the repetition? Go big and slow. I always say try as many things as you can before deciding. If nothing else it will put your mind at ease knowing you explored all possible tangents.
How can ONNO paddles be as strong yet so much lighter?
Something has to give. I do not claim my paddles are as strong as _ or _ nor would they if the situation were reversed. I can easily stack up the plys to bring the strength up to that of _ or_ but why should I? I build strong, safe, lightweight paddles for finesse type paddlers who overwhelmingly appreciate them and are willing to accept the tradeoffs involved with using a paddle that is half the weight.
If you are hard on equipment and actually practice some of the more primitive rescue techniques please let me know in advance and I will build your paddle accordingly. You will hear me get riled when I see a diagram of a line wrapped around one cockpit rim of two rafted up boats tied to the middle of a submerged paddle to which you are supposed to STEP UP ON in order to reenter boat. The magazines and books, which print this should at least include a warning that such a circus act is going to seriously compromise the structural integrity of the paddle. The situation, which warrants this kind of reentry, would be made far more grave if your paddle were to snap in two at the line, fold up and possibly sink . Carrying an extra paddle I hope ......would you try it again? If you were in my shoes and you knew someone broke one this way what would you do or say?
Many of my customers already have a spare paddle. I advise them to use
this as their loaner/rescue practice paddle. Save the nice light paddle for the 99.9% of the time you are in the boat. In my opinion the ideal set up is to have a superlight (preferably one piece) paddle as the primary, while carrying a much beefier 2 piece paddle in some other size as a spare. Length might be the same but go with a smaller blade than your primary for a higher cadence on long trips. Or a larger blade to use in surf. Yes, oz. for oz. The two piece is a little less strong but not to worry because you have let your custom builder know it's intended use. The HYBRID shaft is a bit tougher.
Which layup would you recommend for use around rocks?
Any one. Normally I do not place extra plys on the tips. Why swing that extra weight around every stroke for the odd time you may hit a rock? A ply or two will not prevent paddle disabling damage from occurring. If you know you will be hitting rocks, logs, bodys, or coral on a routine basis then by all means let me know and I will build it up accordingly. If you really split the paddle I can repair it. With your eyes closed you won't be able to tell it even happened. Or I will just change the blade out. Shafts layups stay the same for these paddles
What about the surf?
Strong hydraulic forces are involved here, of which none of us can control. All white water and surf blades are laid up a bit beefier. Above tip talk still comes into play here. I build the paddle stronger overall. You will be happy dropping in on the wave of your life because you got that one last stroke in. Hybrid shaft stays the same. Carbon/Signature shafts may be built up more depending on length, intended use and you.
What do you recommend for feather angle?
If I hand an undrilled two piece paddle to a person to try out and give back to me once they find their favorite offset it usually comes back to me between 41-55 degrees. I also have some customers who I think paddle all day at 57 then 58 then 59 before finally coming to the conclusion that 60 degrees is the best compromise. I agree, my de facto standard is 60. Less than sixty and you feel the breeze (on your paddle) a bit more when paddling upwind. Yes I know the wind may be blowing on the beam or stern or some combination thereof. Not many of us can have all things all the time so we must strike a balance. Over sixty and you might feel the 'throttling' motion a bit more than you would like after a while. If you have paddled at zero degrees since day one and like it great, same for all of you who carry a higher number. I always let people know that if they are paddling in wind over 15 knots on a regular basis they might be happier with a paddle built up at 70-75 degrees.
Lest anyone say I am forcing my way on you..................
Try this the next time you have flat/still conditions. Set your paddle to 90 degrees or even slightly higher and paddle hard with a swift high angle cadence. Notice, how clean paddle releases? Next set it to just a tad over zero. Feel how naturally the paddle rotates as it comes across? Now the first sentence makes sense.
I want a really short paddle for efficiency.
There is definitely a point of diminishing returns here. Unless you are paddling a surf ski, whitewater boat (in whitewater or surf) or a really narrow kayak, my personal opinion is that any thing below 210 is a bit short. If you are used to this fine, but next time you are out take a look at (rods?) your arms in relation to the boat's port/starboard centerline while peripherally (cones?) viewing the blade's entry/exit. Is the whole blade really submerging or do you have to drop your hands to get it there? Will you bang the boat once you are fatigued? The blade has to just go under and of course you can use a super short paddle but if you have to break form to get it there it's too short. Above conservative minimum would be more like 212 and 215 for a narrow sea kayak. Factoring body type and paddling style in goes without saying.
Have you ever considered a wing paddle? If you are thinking about something different that you can still live with..... if you can try one, you will be amazed. Not so good for high braces, sculling or end of stroke type steering/correcting but the rest is all doable.
HOW DO YOUR WING PADDLES COMPARE...OR NOT?
My wing paddle
We have been building some of the most efficient, progressive new RACE WING shapes available for a while now and are continually developing them in our minds through our hands everytime we are on the water. Our Race profiles offer as much rock solid, smooth power as you would want in a wing but also have a fast, super clean release without the paddle feeling finicky ... just set and pull. These paddles are working pieces of art and are hand finished to perfection. All the work has them coming in several ounces lighter than even the highest priced X models you see all over. Please compare..........
Some Wings might be a bit much for use in some parts of the Sea Kayak realm. We now offer two smaller more forgiving blades which you can use for most everything. Please see the onno info section for more on the Smaller Endurance Race Wing and Touring Wing. These do not load up your joints so much that you cannot paddle them with a good cadence all day.*** Within your target heartrate range of course. These wings are, in my humble opinion, better suited for long distance paddling, down river/offshore/ distance racing, etc. I also have some customers using them for every day. Even guiding. If you haven't tried one yet you will be BLOWN AWAY by how efficient they are .....or appear to be. Depends on your stroke. I suggest trying the wing stroke (the wing actually coaches you into this) with your regular paddle. Your boat speed will immediately come up. See if you like it. It's not for every one. Once you get over the initial rush you may like your regular (ONNO) paddle better because it works perfect already........ but you will probably be spoiled and in love with the efficiency of the wing.
***Please Note: The Endurance Race Wing also falls into above catagory somewhat as well ...... happy to discuss.
Thoughts on Ergo or Bent Shafts ( bs )
O.k., I paddle alot and consider myself fairly sensitive to changes in equipment. I do not paddle multi day tours where the cumulative effects both positive and negative have more of a chance to build up. Many of my knowledgeable customers and I have put lots of miles on my prototypes and I know what I am going to build. The people who want the bent shaft who already have one of my other paddles want this new one strictly for long distance touring. They do not want to use the b.s.paddle for fast /long day paddles.
I talk to a lot of industry people and always ask for their opinion on the bent shaft, these are people who have been paddling a long time and can use any paddle they want. "What for?" is usually the answer. I think the paddling for a long time part has a lot to do with that answer, but many think Bent Shaft paddles only live up to their initials ( b.s.)....... THEM.... Not us.
I think the bent shaft paddle would shine on a long point a to b type trip or crossing where a joint problem may even be threatening. This is mere speculation on my part, I am buying into the hype that this paddle will minimize flare-ups. One thing I do know is I have been working with my hands my entire life with no problems other than elbows that rattle more than the spray can I might be shaking while my total keyboard time (as of today) is less than 48 hours in 38 years. I can honestly say that I truly sympathize for carpal tunnel sufferers...I really can feel some stiffness, right now! If this can come on so fast, I cannot imagine being forced to debilitate oneself just to pay rent. Or cross a blown out channel.
If the bent shaft paddle will prevent or lessen the chance of your being off the water, I'm all for it. If you like skillful finesse type paddling and you do not have any problems now or pending I would not fix what is not broken. The bent shaft paddle may take the 'crispness' off some of your best skills (for a while?) but you will be happy with it going straight. Like many things in life you may not love what you once did.
I do have plans to come out with a bent shaft paddle (bs) , but have been talking about it for almost 3 years now. Over 3 years ago I set out to sort of reinvent the wheel so to speak. I made up six different prototypes shafts some of them with two different configuations on them ranging from just under 3 degrees to 15, some with blade forward of shaft center axis , etc. and lent them out to the paddling community here in S.D. with comments and feedback welcome. A seventh paddle was also handed out as a sort of placebo and although folks also thought that one was different, it was identical to another one in the group which I thought was going to "win".
After a almost a month, surprisingly, I got them all back. During this time I some how developed what I guess was some kind of tendonitis in both of my elbows...... probably due to overwork and paddling. Paradoxically, those were the two things I could still do while without much pain while I was actually unable to lift a can of soda to drink from. Perfect time to really see how the ergo shafts work I thought. On to say, while I really liked the ergo shafts, I was not totally sold on them for everyday paddleing nor as the magic silver bullet they have long been touted to be in terms of instant relief for folks.. I do feel they have a perfect spot for some people but most mixed styles paddlers would be better off with a standard straight shaft. I am not really down on them either. IMO for some paddling styles or at least certain parts of some paddling styles I think the ergo shaft is counter productive and may even make things worse for some people.
I - M - O On the catch phase they feel great for everyone as they do let a couple more fingers ( ring and pinky) get into the act. As the paddle comes aft my personal opinion is the shaft really makes things worse as ones (lower) wrist is now expected to go through a sort of contortion when the blade is ready to exit = not good. The higher the paddling style you use, the worse it gets. Same goes for the push hand as one gets less contact up here.
Again I - M - O I do feel that if a person has tried all other options (see below) and is still having trouble. By trouble I mean wrist and or lower arm pain, swelling, weird twinges, reoccuring type stuff or just not feeling right. I feel then that one might find relief by trying the following (within the paddle realm) not exactly in order.
1. Switch to unfeathered. Especially if you paddle with a super low paddling style.
2. At least try a super light, smooth (ONNO:) paddle.
3. Try paddling strokes with more torso, less arm.
4. Try above at a lower angle too.
5. Try a smaller blade as the higher loads of your current ( bigger?) paddle might be causing something...... or......
6. Try a really big paddle which you can just set in water and pull on smoothly with a slower cadence because your current ( smaller?) paddle is having you turn a faster cadence than your joints are happy doing a 1,000,000 times.
7. Try a properly sized bent shaft paddle
One thing that really gets me is how the majors sell the one size fits all shafts. If you have to have one of these paddles make sure you measure your hand spacing on a paddle you like and then MAKE SURE your hands fall in the middle of the ergo section on the off the shelf bs paddle you buy..... if not order a custom one. Tell them you want "X" hand spacing first and foremost then let them size the paddle from the middle out for your personal specs. THEN trim the outboard ends to size for overall length.
On to say, i really tried to keep the "flat" or ergo area as large as possible in order to be able to slide ones hands around as much as possible while still keeping on the flat or intended grip area. Found lots of reasons why I could not go as big as I wanted...... the need for subtle curves for strength instead of overbuilding the shaft ( heavy) with sharper radiai( sp?) for one, being able to accomodate a 31" C-C grip area but still having a 210 length being another........Our 'flat' area is still larger than any other manufacturer and this is real handy for sliding the paddle over for bracing, windshifts etc.
I have a bent shaft plug 90% done sitting here staring at me everyday ready to finish and build molds from. When I get to it is another story. Since I do not have a ton of people asking for it ( which would not matter because if I really liked it I would finish it right away if only to build one ever for myself) and I am super swamped more and more deeper into the winter season ( where I hope for a break to finish projects) with regular paddles and boats, I am not really sure when I will complete it. I hope to get it done this winter though as I do think it will come around in the publics eye though.
Please feel free to call or write to remind me of above self imposed deadline.
back to "The Shaft"
Paddle is hard to take apart/ put together.
As you know these paddles are entirely made by one person. One of the nice features with the two piece paddles is the precise fit of the ferule. Each one is slightly different, so each set must stay together.
I would NEVER send out something that does not work. I check each one of these as I build them up to make sure they fit. If I am shipping a two piece to a person who is less strong, I generally make the ferrule fit a little less snug. Most others paddles are more snug.. If the paddles do not fit together it is because they are mismatched or there is ALOT of foreign material inhibiting said union. Another note. Sometimes people have trouble taking them apart. One of the reasons I put lube in there is to prevent a tight fit from becoming a permanent one. Usually people are not pressing the button down enough when they twist. If someone is having trouble ask them to push button in and slightly off center with anything that fits in there so it won't pop out. Then they can twist the shaft. I have only once had to really force a paddle apart. Guy told me he forced it together, sand / salt, over a year without taking it apart welded it together. P.S. this guy had wiped all the grease off too. Recenter button after separation.
I only hope people do not force the 'impossible' one. Please read below for more.
Friday, September 12
ONLINE ONNO OWNERS MANUAL X3
THIS IS HOW WE DO IT.
Place paddle between your feet / ankles/ calves / shins / knees or combination of thereof while you are standing. Depress button and use both hands on shaft. TWIST the shaft while THINKING separate or go together. No need to apply heavy-handed downward or upward force. All you have to do is get paddle moving by overcoming the initial stiction and it will work perfectly. Once you know the trick it is a piece of cake. Sidebar notes for this are to wrap a few rubberbands or bicycle inner tube on shaft for better grip and / or use a pen to push button in and out of the way.....recentering it later.
Please note if you are still having trouble or are not happy with this please call or e-mail me for a 15 minute, tool free way to "break it in " a bit more.
Please do not: Spoken in a light hearted but firm, I have seen it before and will know if you have done it and will not suffer your mistake manner.
*Use sandpaper..... a tiny bit to far and paddle will be too loose. Please read me saying" I told you so."
* Put defenseless paddle in a vice. This is the kiss of death for a composite part.
* Use heat. Ferule and shaft are like materials and will expand in tandem. If anything the ferule will expand more. You might also exceed epoxy's HDT and ruin the paddle. I will know if this happens.
* Put one person at each blade twisting for all they are worth. This will not work as most of the force gets lost in torsion winding up the blades (and possibly damaging them) and shaft long before it gets directed at ferule where it is needed. Plus it will cause an argument.
* Say it is too tight and send it back (possibly damaged by brutish force) to me only to have me reapply grease and hand it to my petete 5' 2" wife to operate as I throw my hands up.
O.K. thats enough sounding mean.
Please also note ; You always have a direct bottom line to the person who builds these things. (858) 272-7859 OR paddleshop@hotmail.com So please do not hesitate to call or write with your questions, comments and suggestions. All are welcome with sincere alacrity. Thank you for your support and we wish you and yours health and happiness.
Most sincerely,
patrick and Goi
How long does it take?
I have been called chronically optimistic when it comes to quoting shipping times. What you are asking is what I have finally realized. People are willing to wait a bit for something truly custom and are tolerant to a point then it's all sour grapes. There is NOT MUCH that gets me down more than this. It really depends.. if I am building boats your paddle may be a week before I ship it. Otherwise give me 10-14 days to build it up. I can confirm this at the time you wish to order. Emergency present or bribe? Let me know. A huge debt of gratitude goes out to all those patient customers who waited much longer in the early days getting started.
And shipping?
USPS Priority mail 2-3 days insured 9-26 dollars. There is no 'extra' handling charge and I do not have the gall to have a 5-10 dollar box charge.......My conscience would never allow it . In the case of multiple paddle orders or even a single 240cm one piece, I then use UPS. Prices vary more here. Want it faster? Let me know.
ONNO PADDLES....from the hip.
ONNO paddles are the result of over eight years testing and refinement. ONNO's profiles work perfectly for all styles of paddling. Touring, surf, whitewater, or general puttering. NO FLUTTER.
ONNO paddles have a consistent flex throughout their length which affords a very efficient stroke combined with fantastic paddle feedback while being gentle on the connective tissues.
ONE DEMO WILL REVEAL THIS DIFFERENCE.
ONNO paddles are made with aerospace grade materials.
ONNO paddles forgo glossy finishes, which add superficial weight and do nothing for performance or add durability. Slight variations are normal...as with all of us.
It is difficult to sort out all the paddle designs out there. All of them function, some better than others, a few shine like the sun. To make the best choice I urge you to compare as many paddles as you can (including mine please) on the water. Once informed you will best be able to chose for yourself. Try using the same criteria as you would for selecting running shoes. I draw this parallel because the shoes and your paddle are the (singular?) critical interface between you and the element.
WEIGHT..and/or lack of it.
Run more than 5 miles or paddle more that 15 minutes and you will be sold on lightweight equipment. Once you try it, go back to a heavier (plastic) paddle then switch back to a fiberglass or carbon paddle I told you.
DURABILITY: Hey, it's made for water! Be nice to your paddle on land. Rocks / waves...trails? you would not wear slippers hiking so please do not use that ultralite touring paddle in the surf. If you do and it breaks have the couth to admit your irresponsibility. Thank you.
SIZING/USAGE: Be fitted correctly the first time by a knowledgeable (kayak shop) open-minded expert. If it sounds like bull, it probably is. Go somewhere else. Be open about your intended usage, paddling style, height/weight and that of anyone else who might be using a defenseless paddle.
CONSTRUCTION: As with most recreational goods, less weight is more money.
CARBON FIBER; Lightest/stiffest..most expensive.
FIBERGLASS; Slightly heavier than carbon, tougher. Both carbon and glass have a significant advantage over other materials in that the cloths and weave/weights of the fabric can be tailored and so oriented to build a paddle which has it's high load areas reinforced strategically while paring down weight in low stress regions. Resulting in a strong, light, repairable, human friendly tool.
GRAPHITE/CARBON REINFORCED; Paddle looks like a plastic one...
I feel this is an attempt at.. I'm trying to make a point without making an enemy. Well the stuff IS in there but in the form of short chopped strands whose only orientation is from the ride they get through the injectors with the plastic matrix into the mold. Here you pay to see GRAPHITE or CARBON on the label and really do not get much of the benefits as above such as lightweight or sensitivity. These blades are strong/tough and usually lighter than below. Repairable? See below.
PLASTIC; Depending on design , can yield fair performance for not a lot of money. Injection molded usually. Most durable but still should not be used as a shovel, axe or pry bar. Repairable? Manufacturers say yes, I say, go ahead and try. Heaviest usually.
ADVERT: many of these inexpensive plastic paddles are very close in price to the ONNO FIBERGLASS and HYBRID models which weight 8-24 ounces less!
*THINK ABOUT IT*
WOOD: SENSUOUS feel, varies wildly in price. A bit limited in some designs (not wood's fault). Smooth paddling mostly. Repairable? Of course! Usually requires some finish maintenance eventually. (Good therapy). Middle of the road weight.
A word on shafts. Many manufacturers are producing time bombs here. To collect a fast buck? Carbon (An electrical conductor) over unanodised aluminum for one, is a joke. Aluminum, in my humble opinion, has no place being a paddle shaft. It corrodes, wears out very fast in two piece paddles (loose sloppy fittings), feels cold all the time, and does not flex to fit the characteristics desired for even the cheesiest blades. Thank you.
1 PIECE/2 PIECE; A 1 piece offers a weight savings of 1-2 oz. And a wallet savings around 20/30 dollars. A 1 piece paddle will feel 'tighter' for lack of amore precise word. (If you have one I'm all ears). A 2 piece will break down to fit inside many things, not least of which is your boat. Better for travel? You may also switch from your chosen feather to zero degree (s?) anytime you wish. Will eventually get loose at this joint. How long until this happens depends on many things. That's all I will say here.
WHATABOUTWARRANTY?
A day, year, millennium? Seriously, unless you live next to a nuclear plant, U.F.O. landing zone/military outpost or other geographic anomaly, I believe a reasonable verbal agreement should be struck between you and your dealer before you walk out the door. Parts, materials? Because the process is always the same and the materials receive intensive visual inspection during construction, no ONNO paddles leave the shop sheepishly, If I'm having a bad day I practice typing.
I have broken (intentional testing) enough of these in stupid / fun ways to know when you may have done the same. Hence, if a paddle comes to me with the attached "it just broke" and show signs of abuse or excessive wear and tear, I'm going to laugh and tell you how much for repair of replacementÉ..maybe. See: accident happen/enjoyable life.
I'm a nice guy and I key off your attitude. Just use the right tool for the job. If you are hard on equipment, superhuman, planning something out of the ordinary or just not sure (about anything) please feel free to call. Customer lengths, layup, etc. Are all possible and I'm happy to do them. Within 10-14 days.
ONNO PADDLE BUYER BEWARE !
I have been building this business up over 9 years and have a solid following of customers / friends who I cannot express my good feelings and gratitude for enough. I really enjoy talking to and listening to good folks from all over. I take great pride in all my work and would NEVER put a ONNO PADDLE or TIDELINE KAYAK out there that was not built with the utmost of care. EVERYSINGLEONE gets my full attention EVERYTIME. I also like to personally put (match) them correctly in the hands of folks who can best use them as they were designed....so each one will best live up to your expectations and be useful for your intended use..
With that said I would also like to state the following:
I WILL NOT OFFER ANY KIND OF WARRANTY ON PADDLES PURCHASED FROM ANYONE OTHER THAN MYSELF PERSONALLY.
ANY PADDLE PURCHASED FROM OTHER SOURCES WILL NOT BE COVERED BY OUR EASY GOING " no worries" POLICY. NO EXCEPTIONS.
I am sorry to sound so terse. Recent desparate maneuvers by a single individual who's sophmoric, wallowing in narrcissistic self pitty actions have compelled me to do this.
Around here money DOES NOT run the show............ family comes first.
Thank you for listening.
Sincerely,
pat
Now , back to the higher road..........
"Where did you learn to do this?"
It could be said the company started in 1978 when I backed the Austin into a tree while the family was away on vacation, prompting me to buy my first can of Bondo. I found my 'modeling background' helped.
Hundreds of projects and thousands of hours has lead to the PADDLESHOP. A very small company building innovative, elegantly functional products for paddling. All products are built with an emphasis on performance while being lightweight. Durability comes from properly engineering (manipulating) the finest materials aerospace and the military has allowed us to play with.
Twenty four years later (and a few more cans of bondo) I still prefer human power and look forward with alacrity to building the best for you.
My parents didn't yell then and they don't now so I must be doing something right. I thank them and I thank you for your time and consideration.
For other time fodder, please read about TIDELINE KAYAKS
|
|
