HawkNordic: Guide to waxing
Sunday, November 9A simplified guide to waxing
Getting started: A basic guide to waxing your skis.
General Tools:
Synthetic Cork Iron
Plastic Scraper Fiber-pad
Wax remover Combi Brush ( brass / poly )
Groove scraper
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General Base Prep & Glide Wax
1. Clean the base of the ski by hot waxing
• Use Ch-10. Wax the base
• While the wax is still warm scrape the base; this will clean the pores of the ski.
* This should be done at the beginning of the season and as necessary based
on conditions (old, dirty snow) and the frequency of your skiing.
2. Crayon the wax on the ski or slightly heat the wax on the iron and then crayon.
* Do not drip on the ski unless you like wasting wax.
3. Use an iron at the appropriate temperature (Swix irons are calibrated ). If
using “mom’s iron” (not a good idea!) be sure the temperature is as low as
possible. So start at a very low setting until the iron just melts the wax. If the iron
smokes it’s too hot !!!
note: Bases can be “torched” and permanently sealed at 135 degrees. Be Careful !!!
4. Work the iron over the ski once to get the wax warm. Then at a slow but steady
pace iron from tip to tail 3 to 5 times. Be sure to always keep the iron moving!
*You should try to get as much wax in the base of your skis as possible. This
can be done by repeating the ironing process without stripping off the wax.
a. Wax the ski and set it aside for a couple hours
b. work the iron over the ski again, set aside again
c. This process can be repeated four or five times; its not necessary to add more
wax unless its obvious the ski has absorbed all you have put on. For instance
you can hear / feel the iron on the ski. Stop and apply more wax.
5. After the wax has been applied you will want to scrape, brush and polish ....
a. Scrape the edges and groove with a groove tool
b. Scrape the bottom of the ski. Remember to exert even pressure and use
smooth strokes from tip to tail. Both thumbs should be over the ski.
c. Brush with a Brass or Combi brush until all wax appears to be removed.
d. Polish with a fiber pad
6. Choosing the right Glide Wax:
a. Check the temperature for the day
b. Check the humidity: If the humidity is high and its an important race, consider
using an lf (low fluoro) or hf (high fluoro) wax.
c. Swix wax is identified by number scale: ; low (CH4) is cold and high (CH10) is
warm
d. Generally start with an appropriate CH wax and add an LF on top if appropriate;
scrape & brush in-between applications.
Classic Base Preparation:
1. Identifying the wax pocket: ( you will need two people for this )
a. Place the skis on a hard smooth surface
b. Have the skier stand on the binding as if they had ski boots on with feet “track”
width apart.
c. Place an index card under the binding.
d. Instruct the skier to evenly distribute their weight and look straight ahead.
e. Slide the card back and forth. The distance the card can freely travel is the wax
pocket. The pocket should measure @ 45-65 cm starting from the heel plate.
f. Mark the front of the pocket with a permanent marker on the side of the ski.
2. Depending on snow conditions you might want to:
a. Apply a layer of binder wax (VG 35), cork or iron in. If you use an iron be sure
to clean thoroughly after.
b. Lightly sand the “kick zone” with 100-150 grit sand paper in a cross pattern.
* If you have Combi skis use the binder, never sand!.
3. Apply the wax of the day
a. Hard waxes should be applied in “3-5 thin layers” with thorough corking in
between. *Thorough corking means that the wax “appears” to vanish and is no
longer white on the ski.
b. Allow the wax to adjust to the outside temperature before skiing. This will help
prevent icing.
c. If after 1-2 km.’s the wax seems not to be working:
1. Put on another layer of wax.... If that fails
2. Extend the wax zone .... If that fails
3. Move up to the next wax, but apply to as shorter zone.... If that fails
4. Work on your technique
4. Klisters: Seemingly feared by all this very soft, sticky wax is available in the
traditional tube form, “aerosol type” canisters and tape.
a. Tube Klister should always be kept warm. Put it in your pocket, on the car
heater or in a warm coffee thermos. Probably with hot water and not coffee!
* With proper training klister is best applied with a torch or heat gun!
b. Apply a very thin line or a series of drops of klister on each side of the groove
and smooth with a paddle. Think less is more ...
c. Allow the Klister to set up and adjust to the temperature of the snow. If
klister is applied and immediately skied on it will ice over very quickly.
* Although not as durable as traditional applications, "quick klister" is very easy to
apply. Turn the can over, press and slide along the ski. Smooth with applicator.
Your Done!
** Tape klister is also very simple but relatively expensive. Place on the ski,
remove the wax paper and cork lightly. Go ski…
These instructions are meant to be a brief review of basic wax techniques; for a thorough review of the art form get a copy of Nat Brown’s Book on Wax Preparation.
Happy Skiing !!